Blnded Bliss Soap Recipe & Lye Calculator

Build a safe, balanced cold or hot process soap recipe in a couple of minutes. Enter your oils, set your superfat and water, and the calculator works out exactly how much lye and water you need, plus how your finished bar will feel. It's free, runs right in your browser, and nothing you enter leaves your device. New to this? Scroll past the calculator for a plain-English guide and answers to the questions we get asked most.

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Recipe

What this soap calculator does

Soap is what happens when fats meet lye. Stir oils together with sodium hydroxide (NaOH, for solid bars) or potassium hydroxide (KOH, for liquid and soft soap) and a reaction called saponification turns them into soap and glycerin.

The catch is that every oil needs a precise amount of lye to convert fully, This is called it's SAP value (saponification value). Use too much lye and you get a harsh, skin-stripping bar with leftover caustic in it. Use too little and you get a soft, greasy bar that can go rancid. And you can't eyeball it: swap one oil for another, or change a single percentage, and the right amount of lye changes with it.

This calculator does that math for you. Pick from a database of more than 100 oils, fats, butters, and waxes, set your batch up the way you want it, and it returns the exact lye and water weights to measure out as well as a read on how the finished bar will behave. It handles NaOH, KOH, and dual-lye blends, and you can save, print, export, or share any recipe you build.

How to use it

  1. Set your total oil weight. This is the combined weight of all your fats, not the whole batch. Choose ounces, pounds, or grams with the display buttons.
  2. Add your oils. Pick each oil and give it a percentage of the total. The percentages should add up to 100% — the tracker bar shows your running total and tells you how much you still need to add.
  3. Choose a superfat. This leaves a small amount of oil unsaponified for a gentler bar. Most makers use 3–8%; 5% is a safe, common default.
  4. Set your water. Pick how you want to define it: as a percent of your oils (simplest), as a lye concentration, or as a water-to-lye ratio. The live readout shows all three at once and warns you if your concentration drifts into an unsafe range.
  5. Pick your lye type. NaOH for solid bars, KOH for liquid or soft soap, or a blend of both. If your KOH is the common 90%-pure flake, tick the “KOH is 90%” box so the weights come out right.
  6. Add fragrance (optional). Enter a rate as a percent of oils or as ounces per pound. Use Define Scents to split a fragrance blend across multiple oils.
  7. Calculate. You’ll get exact lye, water, and oil weights plus a set of quality scores. From there you can save the recipe to your browser, export a PDF or YAML file, print it, or copy a shareable link.
A word on safety. Lye is caustic. Always wear gloves and eye protection, work in a ventilated space, and add lye to your water — never water to lye. This tool handles the math, but it can’t check your scale or your technique, so weigh everything and double-check before you mix.

Reading the soap quality numbers

After you calculate, the summary predicts how your bar will perform based on the fatty acids in your oils. These are guides, not pass/fail grades — plenty of excellent bars sit a little outside the “recommended” window. Here’s what each one means:

Superfat, water, and lye: the three dials

Most of the feel of a bar comes from how you set three things, and the calculator lets you move each one independently.

Superfat

Superfat (sometimes called a lye discount) is the slice of your oils deliberately left unconverted. A higher superfat means a more conditioning, gentler bar and a bigger safety margin against leftover lye — but go too high and the bar turns soft and short-lived. 5% suits most recipes; rich, oil-forward bars often run 6–8%.

Water

Water doesn’t end up in the finished bar — it just carries the lye and gets the reaction going, then evaporates during cure. More water gives you a thinner mix and more working time but a longer cure; less water sets up faster and harder. A lye concentration of roughly 28–40% covers most cold process soap, which is why the calculator flags anything above 40%.

Lye type

NaOH makes solid bars. KOH makes liquid and soft soaps. A dual-lye blend lets you nudge a bar’s texture — a touch of KOH can soften an otherwise rock-hard recipe. Consumer-grade KOH is usually about 90% pure, so check that box when it applies and the calculator scales the weight up accordingly.

Making tallow soap

Tallow is what Blnded Bliss is built on, so this is the part we know in our bones. Rendered beef tallow makes a hard, long-lasting, mild bar with a dense, creamy lather, and its fatty acid profile is close to what skin already produces — which is a big part of why old-fashioned tallow soap feels so gentle. It’s also a thrifty, low-waste fat: it puts a byproduct of meat to use instead of relying on imported palm oil.

How much tallow?

You can make a 100% tallow bar, and it’ll be hard and gentle — but on its own tallow can feel a little waxy and short on bubbles. Most makers blend it. A common starting point is around 70% tallow with 30% other oils: add coconut oil for cleansing and fluffy lather, and a small amount (5% or so) of castor oil to boost bubbles. Run a few versions through the calculator and watch the quality numbers move before you commit to a batch.

Superfat and working temperature

Tallow soap commonly runs a 5–8% superfat; a pure tallow bar often sits at the higher end. One quirk to plan for: tallow has a high melting point (roughly 95–105°F), so melt it fully and soap a touch warmer than you would with softer oils, or you’ll get false trace as the tallow re-solidifies.

Swapping fats and curing

Beef, sheep, deer, and goat tallow are close substitutes for one another — just recalculate the lye whenever you swap, since each has its own SAP value. Lard behaves similarly but gives a slightly softer, even creamier bar. However you blend it, cure your bars 4–6 weeks (longer makes them harder and milder), and start with fresh, clean tallow to avoid the orange spots that signal rancidity down the line.

Frequently asked questions

What is a soap calculator?

A soap calculator — also called a lye calculator or soap recipe calculator — works out the exact amount of lye and water needed to turn a specific blend of oils into soap safely. It uses each oil’s SAP value plus your chosen superfat and water settings, so you don’t have to do the chemistry by hand.

Why do I need a lye calculator instead of just following a recipe?

Because the moment you change an oil, a percentage, or a batch size, the correct lye amount changes too. Following someone else’s recipe only works if you copy it exactly. A calculator lets you adjust freely and still land on a safe, balanced bar.

What superfat should I use?

Most soap makers use between 3% and 8%. A 5% superfat is a reliable default that leaves the bar gentle while keeping a safety margin so no free lye remains. Richer, more conditioning bars often go to 6–8%.

What’s the difference between NaOH and KOH?

NaOH (sodium hydroxide) makes solid bar soap. KOH (potassium hydroxide) makes liquid and soft soap. Some recipes use both — a dual-lye blend — to fine-tune how hard or soft the finished soap is. This calculator supports all three.

How do I figure out the water?

There are three common ways, and the calculator does any of them: water as a percent of your oil weight (often 33–38%), a lye concentration (commonly around 33%), or a water-to-lye ratio (such as 2:1). The readout shows all three equivalents and warns you if the concentration gets too high.

How much lye does tallow soap need, and how much tallow should I use?

It depends on your exact blend — enter your oils and the calculator returns the precise lye weight. As a starting point, many makers build around 70% tallow with 30% other oils (like coconut and castor) for a hard bar with better lather. Pure 100% tallow works too and is very gentle, though it lathers less.

How long does soap need to cure?

Cold process soap generally cures 4–6 weeks. Curing lets excess water evaporate, which makes the bar harder, milder, and longer-lasting. Tallow-heavy bars in particular reward a patient cure.

Is this calculator free?

Yes — it’s completely free, runs entirely in your browser, and doesn’t require an account. Anything you save stays on your own device.